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  • Kim Gilman
  • Aug 30
  • 3 min read

I've never been to any of the major English cities outside London, so was overdue for a trip to the UK's second-largest city, Manchester. In August we took the train from London's Euston Station (about a two-hour ride) and spent one night at the Hyatt House in downtown Manchester (nice free room courtesy of a Hyatt credit card benefit!). A gourmet breakfast buffet was included - what a deal.



As the summer wanes into late August, normal rainy weather has returned to England. We don't miss the super hot days, but looking back it sure was nice to enjoy so many walks and explorations rain-free. Manchester was rainy, but the weather cleared enough for us to enjoy an open-air bus tour and to walk around quite a bit.


We arrived at Manchester's Piccadilly Station and snapped a few photos before enjoying lunch at a local brewery (the Northern Monk Tap Room). Robin liked the beer. After taking a walk to the supposedly trendy Northern Quarter, we tried out the city's tram system. (Manchester has great public transport, but no subway.) In the evening we rode the elevators to the top of the Beetham Tower (4th tallest in the city) for drinks and the views at the Cloud 23 Bar. Not surprisingly, the drinks were weak but the views were superb. I love finding a high vantage point to survey the territory when visiting a new place.


  • a tribute to injured soldiers
  • colorful sidewalk art
  • historic office building (for my Canadian friends)
  • building with colorful bird
  • tram station
  • view from Cloud 23
  • another view from high up

We began our second day with a 90-minute sightseeing bus, which gave us a fantastic overview of the city. Did you know that while Manchester is 40 miles from the coast, it was England's third-busiest port city in the 19th and 20th centuries? That's because they dug a canal all the way to the Irish Sea! Opened in 1794, the Manchester Ship Canal helped build the city's commerce. But it was not the first canal built there. The earlier Bridgewater Canal (10 miles long) halved the cost of getting coal from the mines to the city's mills, and fueled the Industrial Revolution when it opened in 1761. Today, the docks area is being redeveloped, but continues as a port.


  • our open air tour bus
  • part of the canal
  • we glimpsed this famous stadium

On the bus tour we zoomed passed the People's Museum, which showcases the history of working people and the labor movement. Had I done my advance homework, this would have been a must-see for me. We didn't have time to go back, but I've added it to my list for next time. Once the bus dropped us back in the central city, we enjoyed a visit to the Art Museum, which proudly displays local artists including Laurence Stephen Lowry, whose style helped capture "Manchurian" city life in the early 20th century. Then we were on to the public library and the private Ryland Library (an incredible building in its own right, with a Harry Potter vibe and and never have I seen so many old books!). I'd happily return there as well.


  • Manchester Public Library
  • the reading room inside library
  • the color is yellow!
  • City Hall tower
  • Lowry painting of Piccadilly Gardens
  • Another Lowry Manchester scene
  • Rylands majestic interior
  • math classics
  • Rylands Library exterior

My quest to sample local fine chocolates almost ended in disappointment when I arrived at the Dormouse Chocolate shop at 2:01 PM, hardly imagining they closed at 2:00 on Thursdays. The place was all locked up, but to my surprise, the door suddenly opened. A kind proprietor invited me inside, gave me a description of their various chocolate bars, and cheerily sold me a couple. Then I was off to rejoin Robin for a late but excellent tapas-and-sangria lunch before catching our evening train back to London.



In case you're wondering, lunch (clockwise from left) was salad with walnuts & toasted goat cheese; roasted potatoes in spicy sauce, mushroom pastry parcels with butternut puree, and chicken in a smoked paprika sauce. OH - and a huge class of red sangria.


Well dear Readers, today is August 30th and we'll be returning home to the US in a couple of days. It's hard to see such a great summer end, but no regrets for wasted days here -- there were none! I'll be back with another post sharing some of the fun times we've had visiting London these past few weeks, and then a final installment letting you know we made it home. I wish you, too, some fantastic final days of summer.


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  • Robin Hillyard
  • Aug 25
  • 4 min read

A guest blog by Robin Hillyard


  • A tiny part of the beautiful flower beds at Kew Gardens--note the green grass
  • Sad brown grass when we visited my old (high) school
  • Contrast the green trees and the yellow grass at Kew Gardens

I’m using my guest spot to talk about some aspects of ordinary life here in the UK—what we experience when we’re not traveling to Scotland, the New Forest, etc.

Let’s start with the weather (see the photos above for varying shades of grass color).


London has experienced five heatwaves since May. Heathrow Airport had no rain for 56 consecutive days. Many temperature records have been broken: Kew Gardens measured slightly over 100F a few days after we visited on another extremely hot day. We suffer a little more over here because most houses (including ours) don't have air conditioning. Many houses don’t even have fans! English weather just doesn’t make the capital outlay to install A/C worth it—or at least that was true pre-global-warming. Most transport options have good A/C, including our car, but the tube can be brutal. For the three weeks we spent in Scotland, we really appreciated the cool weather.


An added bonus this summer was the partial eclipse of the sun on August 12th, which was one of many clear blue-sky days. We had something like 90% coverage of the sun, but that was still too much for the naked eye. We had special glasses for ourselves and filters for our iPhones, but we weren’t able to get good photos. Our friends Nancy and Patty went to Spain to see the eclipse in totality - so we got a great photo from them!


Photo by Nancy Olt
Photo by Nancy Olt

That brings me on to one of my favorite subjects: transportation. Although the roads can be crowded, many British people don’t even own a car, or if they do, they will use it only to drive to the station, as we’ve been doing on the many occasions we've visited the capital.Ā From Shenfield, our closest mainline station, the trains are so frequent that we usually don’t even bother to check the timetable. If we miss one, another will be along in 10 minutes or so. From our location in the Essex countryside to the City of London it's about three quarters of an hour. The tube is even more frequent. When you reach the bottom of the escalator and the train is just pulling out, you typically only have to wait two minutes for the next train, sometimes not even that.


And there are buses everywhere: each stop has information about exactly when the next bus will arrive. Even our local once-an-hour bus into town has, at least in theory, a tracker to tell you where it is. They all take bank cards so there’s no fumbling for change. Getting around is just so simple.


  • Pair of Pendolinos at Manchester Piccadilly
  • The Manchester Metrolink tram system
  • Bus coming from London's Tower Bridge

Of course, it wouldn’t be fair to talk about public transportation without a mention of the roads. You’ve probably heard about those roads in Scotland and Ireland which are wide enough only for one car—but have passing places. Well, around here, we have lots of bendy roads which are just (and I mean barely) wide enough for two cars, but without passing places. When a bus, van or lorry (truck) approaches from the other direction, you are obliged to drive into the hedge, the ditch, or whatever just to make room. There’s never a dull moment! Here’s a typical busy but narrow road, less than a mile from our rental house. By the way, the two road signs indicate that you can now legally do the nationwide speed limit (60 mph for single-carriageway roads).Ā  Good luck with that!


Just enough room for two cars to pass--just hope that you don't meet the bus!
Just enough room for two cars to pass--just hope that you don't meet the bus!

By contrast, the motorways are well-engineered, fast (up to 70 mph), and safe for long-distance travel. On the whole, drivers here are more disciplined and, because of all the cameras, they are more likely to obey the speed limits.


Kim does a great job of telling you about food. I don’t really need to say much other than that we eat well. Very well. What I do want to talk about is pub culture—and beer in particular, although almost all pubs do a good, or at least decent, job with food (I’m easy to please). Pubs are an integral part of village life (sometimes the ā€œvillageā€ is in a town or city) and act as casual meeting places where you can go and have a good natter with people you may or may not know. Sadly, we don’t have a pub within walking distance—it was turned into a Turkish restaurant a few years ago. But we have a dozen friendly country pubs within a fifteen-minute radius, and they all have cask ale: traditional English beer which, as Kim will tell you, is too warm, flat, and bitter. But I—and many of my fellow Englishmen—love it. The heat of this summer has been tough on the beer, though. It doesn’t keep long even in the cellar when it’s so warm above ground.


  • One of our local pubs
  • fresh from the cask
  • The Prince's Head in Richmond--fans of Ted Lasso will recognize this pub.

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We are blessed here in Essex with some fabulous country parks. The UK has quite steep ā€œdeath duties,ā€ which frequently means that the children of the nobility have to sell off a few assets. The county has done a great job of converting some of that wealth that formerly was in private hands to public parks. Not far from us (30 minutes) is the great Epping Forest, a 6,000-acre former royal hunting ground, that is almost wilderness, or at least it seems like it when you’re hiking there. There are thousands of fallow deer (too many really!) as well as wild Longhorn cattle.

  • Wild Longhorn cattle in Epping Forest
  • Tired dog gets a ride in Epping Forests
  • Lovely Thorndon Country Park
  • Pay and Display (by app or machine)

There are three smaller, yet still huge, parks within 15 minutes of us, each of which we’ve visited several times with our two dogs. There is a parking fee that helps maintain the park. Almost all parking places in the UK are either number-plate-based or app-based. You never need coins anymore. Today, we returned to Thorndon Park (350 acres) and were exploring new, apparently limitless trails when Kim observed, ā€œSo many trails, so little time.ā€


šŸš— šŸŗ 🄾 🚊 🌳


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  • Kim Gilman
  • Aug 21
  • 3 min read

Updated: Aug 30

Between our visits to Skye and Mull this summer, we took a detour north by ferry to Scotland's largest island, Harris/Lewis. We previously stayed a few days in the main town, Stornoway, in 2024. While there, Robin picked up a detective novel called "The Black House" by Peter May. Since then, we've both read several mysteries in that series, with the settings of each story on these islands in the Outer Hebrides. Robin especially was keen to return and visit some of the locales in the books. I agreed to go along, and I'm glad I did because I enjoyed Harris & Lewis even more on this second encounter.



Our lovely rental cottage was midway between the island's two main towns of Tarbert and Stornoway, overlooking Loch Seaforth. A local stag graced our view the first morning.



As usual, the weather was variable with clouds, wind, and rain most days. However we were lucky during our July stay, as the rain was mostly brief and sunny blue skies even made some appearances. But I've noticed that many of our UK photos seem to include dramatic clouds, and Harris/Lewis is no exception.


We had few firm plans when we arrived on the island other than a one-day driving tour of the northern island, Lewis, which was to include several sites from the Peter May stories. The day before, I was in the mood to hike, so at random I picked one from All Trails just a few minutes from our AirBnB. It turned out to be one of my favorite hikes ever ("Bogha Glas to Uilt nah-Airigh Moire"). It was so atmospheric and scenic, and in four hours, Sophie and I encountered no other souls. At the turnaround point, I didn't even realize I had reached the viewpoint for the isle's largest freshwater lake, Loch Langabhat. No roads lead there. One day I hope to return and further explore this wild and beautiful place.


  • the trail up the valley
  • looking back at Loch Seaforth
  • almost missed the cairn and trail to right
  • first glimpse of Langabhat
  • misty Loch Langabhat

The next day, we had a guide/driver for our sightseeing excursion, to give Robin a break and the opportunity to look around without paying attention to the roads. Our guide Gordon was a fine driver and showed us some of the scenes around Ness, a town at the north end of the island where the May characters lived. (A fictional murder victim is found in the boat house!) Then on our final day, Robin drove us to the famous Luskentyre Sands Beach, thought by many to be the most beautiful beach on the island.


  • The beach at Ness
  • The Ness Boat House
  • Ness Church (Donald Murray's)
  • Luskentyre Sands
  • tasty treats in Stornoway
  • Bar at the Harris Hotel

If you go to Harris & Lewis, you'll want to visit the ancient stone circles at Calanais, but we saw them in 2024 so didn't go again. They're very worth it though! Now, I promised you some castles in this post - so let's get to the part of our journey where we drove through Scotland and northern England on our way back to London.


Castles -- both ruins and those that have been maintained enough to remain open -- are plentiful in this part of the world. I love the ruins the most - they're so evocative of a bygone era. I think we found some really cool castles on this trip -- what do you think? My fave was Kilchurn (first image below) and I even bought a photo print from the neighboring landowner! (2nd image). Robin was pleased to realize that Doune Castle (3rd photo) was used in filming "Monty Python & the Holy Grail." The final image here is the iconic Eilean Donan near the Skye Bridge, which we loved visiting in 2023.


  • Kilchurn Castle from across the loch
  • Kilchurn for framing later!
  • Doune Castle, near Stirling Scotland
  • Castle Bolton, Yorkshire Dales England
  • Eileen Donan near the Skye Bridge

Note, Scotland has around 1,500 castles, and while we've seen a few others along the way, clearly we have only scratched the surface in castle-viewing!



Dear Reader, if you haven't been to Scotland and have a mind to travel, I encourage you to place it atop your list. Just bring your rain coat and enjoy the escape from any heat waves your friends might be suffering. (Yes, London has been really hot this summer!) Meanwhile, you can join some of the "Traveling in Scotland" Facebook groups for ideas or just to daydream. I am already looking forward to going back.


Typical highway view heading home from Scotland
Typical highway view heading home from Scotland

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